If you’ve bought vegetables recently, your eyes might be watering before you even start chopping. Retail onion prices across the city have shot up to ₹55–65 per kg—nearly 60% higher than last year.
With delayed monsoons driving supply pinches, the government has even stepped in to run bulk ‘Kanda Express’ supply trains into Delhi.
So, how are restaurant kitchens handling the price rise without messing with taste or hiking your dinner bill?
Chefs seem to fall into two main camps: those finding clever workarounds, and the purists refusing to touch traditional recipes.
The innovators: Smart swaps an alternative bases
Chef Nishant Choubey believes trying new things in the kitchen is key when ingredient prices swing wildly. “Due to the recent surge in onion prices, I am sure I’m not compromising on the end products, but yes, I have started experimenting with dehydrated onion powder, spring onion, and strangely a bit of cabbage as well,” he reveals.
Choubey points out that traditional Indian cooking already has plenty of onion-free options. “I play smart by using gravies made with tomato and cashew, cabbage-tomato, or coconut bases, which don’t require onion at all,” he explains. “Makhani gravies don’t need onions, yoghurt-based gravies with besan act as great thickeners, and palak gravies are completely onion-free too! As a chef, there are so many options to explore—even famous staples like Dal Makhani and Butter Chicken don’t actually need onion bases.”
The purists: Operational efficiency over substitution
Other chefs argue that shortcutting the base ruins classic dishes. “Onion prices climb every few months and then they settle again. We have seen it before,” says Prriyam Chauhhan, founder of a restaurant in Hauz Khas Market. “What does not change is how we build our gravies – onions cooked down slowly to a birista until they almost vanish into the pan. That is where the sweetness comes from and there is no shortcut for it. If I cut the onion by a third, the guest will not be able to name what is missing, but they will know something is off. The food should not have to change every time the mandi moves.”
Chef Bharat Alagh agrees, focusing on managing waste rather than changing recipes. “Despite the current high cost of onions, we are continuing using them in recipes where they are a core ingredient, as they play an important role in the dish’s flavour, texture, and authenticity,” says Alagh. “Instead of compromising on onion-rich preparations or using substitutes, our focus is on better procurement, effective yield management, portion control, and strict wastage control.”
Bringing the hacks home: Easy pantry swaps
- A tiny pinch of heeng fried in hot oil gives that familiar onion-garlic aroma.
- Onion powder is affordable and stays good for months while adding quick savoury depth.
- Use the green tops of spring onion for a fresh onion flavour.
Gravy hacks recommended by chefs:
- Finely chopped cabbage cooks down completely and adds body just like melted onions.
- Curd and besan when whisked together creates a rich, thick curry.
- Tomato and cashew paste blends into a silky base.
- Mashed potato or boiled lauki can be blended into soups and sambars to thicken them.
